I have wanted to climb Mount Kinabalu in Sabah. Finally the
opportunity arose and I boarded a flight to Kota Kinabalu with my other
friends and an equal measure of excitement and trepidation. As ever, the
flight was comfortable and timely, delivering us to Kota Kinabalu early
in the afternoon with plenty of time to make the two-hour drive up to
the Kinabalu Park headquarters. As we approached, in heavy rain, to
Malaysia's first UNESCO World Heritage Site, I got my first glimpse of
the great mountain, with the grey rocks of the summit rising
majestically from the lush green forest below, teasing us from behind
the clouds. We spent the night in the park and awoke the next morning to
a brilliant blue sky filled with sunshine. Weather like that never
fails to lighten my step, no matter how many I needed to take.
My
group set off from Timpohon Gate at 8.00 a.m. The fresh air and cool
temperature were a joy. I found the trail well maintained, and the
combination of markers at every 500 metres and regularly spaced rest
huts meant that I always knew how much progress I was making. It was a
six kilometre trek to the Laban Rata resthouse, where we spent half the
night before making the final push for the summit. The last leg - about
1.4 km - didn't sound far but was, in fact, quite a challenge! Whilst
there was plenty to look at - the occasional, breathtaking views across
the lowlands, the forest, fellow climbers and, porters passing with gas
canisters, cases of canned drinks and trays of eggs strapped to their
backs - the trail did become a slog and the air got noticeably thinner.
Just
short of five hours after setting off, we reached Laban Rata and what a
treat that was - sitting out on the terrace, above the clouds in the
blinding sunshine, boots off, aching legs but with all-round
exhilaration! Aside from adjusting to the altitude and soaking in the
view, which got even better at sunset. There wasn't much to do up there.
But the time passed quickly, and at around 3.00 a.m., it was time to
depart the resthouse.
Setting out in the dark was the part I had
been most nervous about but it was fine. The sky was clear and the stars
were spectacular; it made me realise how much artificial light pollutes
the cityscape. Once we were up on the plateau, walking became easier;
the enormous slabs of granite provided good grip. As the sky began to
lighten and the different peaks emerged from the darkness, I reached the
last 200 metres of the ascent to Low's Peak. It could not have been
timed better. The orange rays of the rising sun filled the sky as we
queued for photographs on the summit of Malaysia's highest peak at
4,095m. The area is remarkably small, and with 147 climbers reaching the
top in close succession, all eager to get their photograph, there was a
great need to keep ones' patience!
Descending to Laban Rata was
fabulous as we could see all that had been hidden in the darkness on the
way up. We were presented with endless views of Kota Kinabalu and out
to sea, the rocky outcrops of the plateau and the beautiful alpine
vegetation below. Enroute, we stopped at Laban Rata for a second
breakfast and to pick up the gear we temporarily discarded from our
packs for the final climb.
There was no getting away from it but
the long walk back to the gate was the hardest. It felt like the best
part was now behind me. The exhilaration I felt on the summit lasted
only a while and, as my knees started to ache with the force of walking
down the steps, it became a mental challenge to continue putting one
foot in front of the other. Almost four hours later, we finally arrived
at the gate. We collected our certificates from the park headquarters
and left the place exhausted but ecstatic over our achievement.
Back
home looking at the photographs, the trip is almost dream-like. It far
exceeded my expectations - the weather, the organisation, the
camaraderie of a big group and the feeling of achievement. The
experience will live with me forever! Would I do it again? Definitely!
Should you do it? Absolutely! One of life's great experience is at your
doorstep, what are you waiting for?
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